Folk village

Korea is a country defined not only by its rapid pace, work-hard lifestyle and bustling streets, but by its rich and well-recorded history.
It is a sad fact when I first planned on travelling to Korea I explained to a friend I liked history and “old things” to which he replied it was hard to find here because so much was destroyed in the war in the early 1950s.
One way the people have shown themselves not only recovered but prospered during the last six decades is a way of honouring the past through folk villages, where their past is recreated in a touristy, but humble and classy way.

One of the most famous of these is the aptly-named Korean Folk Village in the Seoul satellite city of Yongin.
Built in the early 1970s, and based on the Chosun Dynasty which ran the place for 500 years until 1897, as a way of tourist promotion and history keeping the village has recreations of everything from traditional pottery kilns, houses, musical instruments and temples.

I visited in winter and the snow on the eves and trees surrounding the area made it look fantastic, even though the weather did cut out some performances and activities.

Korean architecture is given added beauty in the snow.

While it is a created atmosphere, the approach to history recreation is quite proud and charming and the staff manning the houses show real enthusiasm for keeping the old ways alive.

The old ways represented as best they can.

Work still to be done in the hanbok - Korean traditional dress

I would recommend leaving plenty of time as the site of 260 traditional houses is absolutely huge and growing, the museum on site is enough to keep you occupied for a while.

Spoiler points for the jarring children’s theme park which seems to pop up out of nowhere when strolling across one of the many bridges criss-crossing the passing stream and a few tacky souvenir stands.
This is a good first stop for those wanting to escape the city and find out a little bit about the country’s history.

Jindo Parting of the Seas Festival

What do tigers, the parting of the sea and giant orange gum boots have in common; the Jindo Miracle Sea Road Festival, of course.
The festival over the weekend of April 25 to 28 on Jindo Island is celebrated every year when the sea parts to allow thousands to walk across the ocean, if it sounds unique you’re absolutely right.

Thousands walk across this narrow stretch of mudflat, reliving a tale from deep in Korea's past.

I had not heard much about the festival but received an urgent message from a friend on the Friday to get to Gwangju as the sea was going to part and it was not to be missed.
About four trains later I was in Gwangju and keen to learn more so it was off to Kino Bar, a trendy little spot which has just about any song you could want to request in almost any format.
Over a few beers friends told me the sea forms a walk-able path between the villages of Hoedongri and Modori on different islands, just long enough to allow people to cross a natural 40 metre-wide bridge.
I knew I had made the right choice in coming and this was clearly not to be missed.
After a trip through the popular dance club Bubble and a few hours sleep we were on the first bus to Jindo Island, which is very accessible by bridge and public transport, then a local bus to the village of Modo which in all took about three hours - phew.

Long bus rides with my buddy Adam have become frequent but fun occasions.

The first trip back to the sea after a couple of months was welcome relief.

On first entering the festival, which was actually huge, we purchased giant, thigh-high orange plastic boots which everyone seemed to be wearing and a cup of fried chicken on top of a soda.

Orange thigh-highs be sex-ay

The place was huge and teeming with people and every where you looked seemed to have some kind of performance or attraction, great fun but it appears it pays to check out Korean festivals thoroughly beforehand to see the best sites.

Flavour and fun are trademarks of any good Korean festival.

Come late afternoon people began to drift down to the water and we followed suit as thousands upon thousands stretched out across the 2.8 kilometres between the villages.
The event is significant as it involves a folk story of a lady named Grandma Mulberry who braved tigers to live on the island by herself while others escaped and one night prayed to end her loneliness.
Lo and behold the next day the sea parted and the village came back to visit her, then she died. That’s the story, but it now brings a pilgrimage of crowds every year to celebrate the phenomenon.
I have to say the parting of the sea was interesting but the people really made the day.

Watching young couples collecting seaweed and grandparents teaching the kiddies to dig for clams and the perpetual smiles on the faces of those enjoying a drink or eat in one of the hundreds of stands really made the day.

When we donned our bright boots the locals were forthcoming in approaching and giving their approval and a few laughs which was great too.
The festival side of things was not too different from other events in Korea but seeing the mass stretched out across the sea in some sort of aquatic pilgrimage was really incredible.

Where have you been?

Nearly five months of living in Korea have given me a wealth of stories, of which I have posted none! Well done.

Flying the flag on a ferry ride out to Docho-do on Korea's South-West coast.

But I have found a bit of time so I will be throwing a few things up in time to come, they will be a bit out of order and a bit hurried but it's good to get this thing going again.

Cheers,

Andy