Borderlands - into the Korean border DMZ

"You can see how we're surrounded on three points by North Korea," the American Army guide points  out. Our group is standing at a UN outpost on the North/South Korean border deep into the four -fortified, four kilometre line known as the DMZ.
It stands for De-militarized Zone, an area which runs along the 38 degrees North parallel which has separated the two parts of the Korean peninsula since 1953 when a bloody and brutal war for the peninsula ceased major hostilities.

Looking into North Korea with a plaque commemorating UN Forces

Map of DMZ at UN briefing

Myself and two friends joined a USO tour of the area viewing the complicated and intruging facets which make up the border area including once-clandestine tunnels dug by the north, an area which joins the two nations for meetings and observations outposts.
We were able to stand in a "thumb" containing a UN outpost which overlooks forest area, a minefield, North Korean outposts and the famous propaghanda village. So while the border seperates the two countries by some distance there are parts where you can grab a glimpse of one of the world's most isolated and introverted States.
Our tour began with a trip down tunnel 3, one of four made by the North in a suspected attempt to invade and discovered between the 1970s and 1994.

It's a long way under the earth at 80 metres and intriguing to see the walls carved by soldiers through the harsh volcanic rock. We were told about 30,000 troops could make their way through the tunnel in an hour, which I would believe judging by the two single-file lines of fellow tourists ploughing in and out of there. Would not recommend this if you are even the slightest bit claustrophobic as even I had trouble with the number of people and not being able to stand.
The next stop was Dorasan station which until recent political frictions was used every day to carry tourists and workers between the two states. It was quite eery when we were there as the station is abandoned so you are able to walk around and through onto the tracks, but we were surrounded by fog in the morning and the railway seemed to disappear into nowhere.

The eerily empty station

The tracks dissappear into the mist

After lunch we popped up to the tourist observation post which looks out over North Korea and the lush vegetation which has sprung up due to lack of human interference. We were also given a briefing on what we should have been able to see, but the fog kept the view reasonably short. What is hilarious about this area though is that there is a photo line about 10 metres back from the edge where you can't actually see anything so taking the camera here is a bit redundant.

The fog over the introverted North was quite metaphorical

The most exciting and interesting part of the tour though is being taken inside the zone itself where you can actually come face-to-face with the North Korean armed forces. After a briefing by US soldiers we are placed on buses with an Army guide and given strict instructions about where we are going and what can and especially, what can not be photographed.
As the bus heads through we pass minefields, tanks traps, road blocks and a whole number of intimidating sites including areas where fighting and ambushes have taken place in the past, then onto our first stop at the Joint Security Area. The JSA is a special area right in the middle of the border which has a number of huts which allow leaders from both sides of the peninsula to meet and is run by the UN and US forces.

The UN-controlled huts of the JSA

A North Korean guard can be seen standing on duty across the border

Stepping out into the courtyard, North Korean soldiers are clearly visible on guard posts and several South Korean guards are posted for our safety. We are allowed to enter the huts and for a brief couple of minutes step inside the boundary of North Korea.

Stepping into the North for a moment

The border runs down the centre of the table

From there we are taken to the outpost which sees us surrounded by the North and then down to the borderline and the poignant "Bridge of No Return". The bridge was the last point of exchange of North and South Korean prisoners of war after the end of major hostilities in 1953. Prisoners were released and told they could stay on either side or leave - but whatever decision they made could not be reversed. They could not return once the crossing had been made.

Bridge of no return - this was the last place many saw the other side of the border

An outpost on the DMZ surrounded by lush forest land

Following that was the gift shop, museum and then back to Seoul. It is quite a surreal experience stepping into and observing one of the most feared parts of the world but the hope of unification still exists in these areas.

The now non-functioning border gate