Wednesday 20 November 2013

Taiwan - checking out Taipei city of scooters and noodles


The first thing you notice about Taipei in the middle of summer is the heat. When you step out of the subway and the little screen tells you it's 34 degrees outside you know you're going to be a sweaty monster in seconds.
The second is the scooters - they are everywhere, clogging up footpaths, roads and alleyways, it definitely seems to be the main form of transport and everyone's got one. From young people texting on the back seat as their driver weaves through traffic or the dapper gentleman with suit and tie it's the most prevalent way to get around.

Once you become accustomed with these two facets of the city, which you do quickly due to the overwhelming aspects of both, you see Taipei a thoroughly diverse city which appears relaxed, although constantly moving and friendly.
One of my favourite things about Taipei was the mix-up of people and cultures everywhere we went. At the Chiang Kai-shek area there was these huge white arches that were obviously designed and built by someone for whatever inspiration and they are absolutely magnificent. While gazing upon these structures in awe and contemplating what motivations people have and what great lives people must lead to have things like this built in their honour - there was a bunch of ladies next me feeding a swarm of pigeons. Both these sights were as interesting to me because one is a monument which will stand for centuries and the other a fleeting moment, but both represented humanity at its finest and most interesting, which is kind of what this city was all about.


In the nearly a week I stayed there with two friends we found plenty of amazing little pockets within the sprawling mass and staying several different areas we found Taipei to be different and changeable wherever you are.

Around Taipei main station and Datong
Arriving in the city from the airport and looking super-lost as we studied maps and cellphones in our quest to find the accommodation we had booked. It was not long before a woman came up to us and in perfect English let us know the right direction to head. As we toddled off thanking her profusely she finished the conversation with a chirpy "welcome to Taiwan". It was only the first of many with a number of people helping us along the way, often without being approached and made the experience feel really friendly and welcoming. I even had one short lady stop me mid-stride on the last day just to welcome me.
Being based in Korea this really got us talking about the differences between the two countries. In Korea I had been approached a few times when lost also and people had been very helpful at times as well. Taiwan, though, at least the city, seemed to have more English speakers but I do not think this was an education thing, I think Koreans are just more shy about using their English.
After checking in we explored the Museum of Contemporary Art which is in a stately building not far from the station. A trendy little gallery the artsy among you will feel right at home and a the cute accompanying coffee shop offers a nice breather.
The area North of the station where we stayed seems a bit like your average Taiwan with lots of pokey little shops and apartments intertwined with noodle shops while south offers shopping malls and sky-high department stores catering for every need.


A short walk away is the Ning-Xiao night market. Taiwan is famous for its markets which are pretty much everywhere. Ning-Xiao is a smaller one but offers heaps of food and drink. We tried all sorts of things like octopus and pork noodle rolls, papaya smoothies and sausages of unknown origin and make. One of the most remarkable things about Taipei is the range of food, catering to every taste. The entire time we were there we ate out in noodle huts, the markets, corner dumpling stores and even a couple of restaurants. All of which offering flavours from very part of Asia and beyond.
In the coming days, we explored the National Museum which was currently holding an amazing amber exhibit featuring preserved tree-sap capturing animals, insects and plants from millions of years ago - most recognizable from Jurrasic Park as where the dino-DNA is taken from. Unfortunately this was pseudo-science, but looking upon a perfectly preserved lizard or mosquito from a time before our species even existed was very striking and ultimately humbling.

Not far from here on the West side of the station is the San Yan Set Memorial House and park. This incredible building is absolutely huge and features and three-story high statue of the Chinese leader, who, politics aside, is revered on both sides of the Taiwanese Strait. We arrived there to a packed hall for the changing of the guard's ceremony. We did not even know it was on, just happened to be there. With a lot of rifle-twirling and boot stomping the well-dressed guards exchanged places, but the ceremony was hilarious because the actual security in suits protecting the guards provided the real protection. But, it was interesting all the same.


Daan and Xinyi
The financial capital areas of Taipei, these two areas feature incredible high-rises, upmarket shopping, fancy hotels, trendy bars and, nestled in between fantastic markets and great finds. The most notable piece of Xinyi, especially is the famous Taipei 101 tower.

It sprouts out of the city like the bamboo shoot it was designed to look like and is a great reference point when navigating as it is huge. At the base of the tower it touts it is "the greatest engineering achievement in the world" which, I guess is open to interpretation. If your a shopper this area is for you and a variety of late-night dance clubs will keep you going to the early hours if you want to party after.
Being frugal travellers we were able to marvel as we had a poke into one of the high-rise bars and the biggest freaking bookstore I have ever seen, but were always warmly welcomed in what appeared to be the typical Taipei fashion.
We stayed in a hostel in Daan, maybe 15 minutes walk from the tower and this area is less up-market but once again had amazing night-markets. This is where you want to eat in Taipei as we were able to find treats from all over the world. I often have a large disdain for "foodies" and people who identify themselves as such - but it is impossible to deny that eating in Taiwan is a great adventure as well as being cheap, delicious and fun. One of my favourite treats in Asia is being able to buy a whole coconut and drink it from a straw which is easily found in every market we visited.

Zhongzheng
Zhongzheng is a popular tourist spot as it  features a number of architectual marvels from the Presidential palace to the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall area featuring a number of towering monuments and buildings. We had a whole day wandering through this area and it's well worth it.


Just about every building here is epic and if you like looking at big and old things its a great spot to be.
It's also home to the Government buildings including the Presidential palace:

There's so much to see and do in Taipei it's impossible to capture it all in one go, so a few days was well worth our time.


Cheers to Taipei!

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